I’ve painted cupboards so many instances in my DIY life that I’ve misplaced depend, however once I determined to make use of IKEA Sektion cupboards in my studio, the considered portray them made me nervous. I had no concept find out how to paint IKEA cupboard, or if it was even attainable. In any case, there are specific supplies that simply shouldn’t be painted as a result of should you do paint them, it in all probability received’t final lengthy.
I had by no means used IKEA cupboards earlier than, so I had no concept what the manufacturing unit end was like, or what they had been fabricated from. However after studying on the product description for my Veddinge doorways and drawer fronts that they had been fabricated from fiberboard, polyurethane paint, and acrylic paint, I felt assured that they could possibly be painted with a sturdy end that may final.
And I’m so glad I went for it! Whereas I don’t have any part of cupboards fully completed but (the one pictured beneath is the closest to being completed, however I nonetheless want to complete the toekick), these cupboards have far exceeded my expectations, not solely in how they perform (I’m now a enormous fan of IKEA Sektion cupboards!!), but additionally in how they give the impression of being. I completely love my pink studio cupboards.
Why Paint IKEA Cupboards?
I do know these of you who’re aware of IKEA cupboards and the superb manufacturing unit end that comes on these cupboards are in all probability questioning, “Why on the planet would you paint these within the first place?” I get it. It’s a sound query. And the easy purpose is as a result of I had my coronary heart set on pink cupboards for my studio. And naturally, nobody has ready-to-assemble pink cupboards. Pink cupboards are all the time going to be a customized end.
However let me let you know, I’ve by no means wished a lot that I used to be a white cupboard type of particular person! After I began opening up the IKEA containers and seeing the superb, sturdy manufacturing unit end on these doorways and drawer fronts, the thought that I used to be going to damage such an ideal end type of made me unhappy.
However…pink. The considered pink cupboards stored me shifting ahead. 😀
And because it seems, portray IKEA Sektion cupboards isn’t any completely different from portray some other cupboards. The method is all the identical, so as soon as I acquired previous my preliminary nervousness of ruining the manufacturing unit end, the remainder all felt very acquainted to me. So let me present you step-by-step how I did it.
How To Paint IKEA Kitchen Cupboards
The cupboard doorways and drawer fronts that I ordered are the Veddinge style, that are fully flat on the entrance and the again. For those who hold these as is, they’re absolutely the best to color, and all you want is a six-inch paint curler for clean surfaces.
However in fact, I can’t depart effectively sufficient alone, so I made a decision so as to add trim to the fronts of my doorways and drawer fronts. This made the method a bit tougher and required a sprayer for the fronts. However I’ll get to all of that in a minute.
Right here is my fundamental course of for portray these IKEA Sektion Veddinge doorways and drawer fronts:
- Sand the fronts and backs to scuff up the manufacturing unit end, and take away the mud,
- Prime the back and front of every door and drawer entrance,
- Sand the primer on the backs of every door and drawer entrance to take away any imperfections, and take away the mud,
- Paint the backs of every door and drawer entrance with two coats of paint, sanding calmly between coats,
- Clear coat the backs of every door and drawer entrance with two coats of clear coat, sanding very calmly between coats,
- With the backs fully dry and completed, sand the primer on the fronts, and take away the mud,
- Paint the fronts with two coats of paint, sanding calmly between coats,
- Clear coat the fronts with two coats of clear coat, sanding very calmly between coats,
- Let the fronts dry completely (ideally a full day, a minimum of) after which set up!
While you see the steps listed like that, the method doesn’t appear very intimidating, proper? In reality, it appears fairly easy. However most individuals get slowed down within the particulars. Ought to I spray? What if I don’t have a spot to spray? Can I brush? And if I brush, how do I do away with brush stroke?
It may be so much to suppose by, so let me present you precisely how I did it, what merchandise I used, and provide you with some ideas alongside the way in which.
Step 1 – Sand the manufacturing unit end
Step one was to sand the manufacturing unit end to present the floor some “tooth” for the primer and paint to stay to. I did this utilizing my electrical sander and 100-grit sanding discs. This IKEA manufacturing unit end is hard, and whereas I might usually begin with 150-grit, I discovered that the powerful IKEA manufacturing unit end required one thing extra abrasive.
There’s no have to sand your complete end off. In reality, what you see within the photograph above was my very first one to sand, and I sanded it far more than obligatory. The purpose is to take away the tremendous shiny manufacturing unit end, however there’s no have to sand by the paint all the way down to the naked materials.
(Elective) Add trim
For those who’re planning on including trim to your doorways and drawer fronts, now’s the time to do it. The entire purpose I purchased the Veddinge door and drawers was in order that I might do my very own trim design and lower your expenses. However clearly, that is fully non-compulsory. I might guess that most individuals purchase Veddinge fronts as a result of they need that flat, no frills look.
(Elective) Drill holes for cupboard {hardware}
I all the time advocate that should you’re going so as to add drawer pulls or knobs to the cupboards, drill these holes earlier than portray the cupboards. That means, if any errors are made, they are often fastened with some wooden filler and sanding earlier than you begin priming and portray. There’s nothing extra disheartening than drilling holes for {hardware} on freshly painted cupboard doorways and making a mistake.
Step 2 – Prime the back and front of every door and drawer entrance
In any case of that, I used to be lastly prepared to begin on the priming. I used Zinsser BIN Shellac-Based mostly Primer. That is nice stuff, and I used it as a result of it’s costly and I occurred to have it available from different tasks I’ve executed just lately.
If I didn’t have this available, I might have opted for my different favourite Zinsser Oil-Based mostly Cowl Stain primer.
Each are incredible merchandise, however the oil-based is about half the value.
PLEASE NOTE: There are a number of types of cupboard doorways and drawer fronts obtainable from IKEA and different firms to suit the IKEA Sektion cupboards. I don’t know what all of them are fabricated from, so that you’ll have to examine earlier than deciding on a primer. Something made with wooden or a wooden product will be primed with both of the above merchandise. Something made with any kind of laminate would require the shellac-based primer. Even at that, portray laminate will be difficult, so the sturdiness and longevity of the end could also be questionable.
I utilized the primer to the backs of the doorways and drawer fronts utilizing a 6-inch curler for clean surfaces. Be certain that the label on the curler says “clean surfaces”! And my private choice is those that really appear to be miniature variations of rollers that you just’d use for partitions. I can’t stand these small foam rollers!
Step 3 – Sand the primer on the again of every door and drawer entrance
This primer dries fairly rapidly to the contact, however I allowed it about two hours of dry time, after which I sanded it calmly with 220-grit sandpaper. This didn’t require a lot work in any respect. This was only a very fast sanding to be able to take away any bubbles or imperfections that will have escaped my discover.
As a result of I made issues troublesome for myself by including the trim to the fronts, I couldn’t use the curler to prime the fronts. As a substitute, I had to make use of my little paint sprayer, which implies that the job needed to be executed outdoors. If I had left the fronts plain, I might have used a curler to prime the fronts as effectively. After spraying the fronts with primer, I allow them to dry, after which calmly sanded them identical to I did the backs.
Step 4 – Paint the again of every door and drawer entrance
Subsequent, it was time for paint. I used Behr Premium Plus paint, which is my favourite common objective paint. And so long as I’m planning on utilizing a transparent coat (which I used to be on these cupboards), I really feel snug utilizing this common objective paint on cupboards. If I weren’t planning on clear coating, I might have gone with the next high quality paint from both Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams made particularly for cupboards, like Benjamin Moore Advance.
However I really like a transparent coat end for sturdiness, so I caught with Behr Premium Plus, and I added Floetrol within the quantity specified on the directions. Floetrol helps to get rid of brush strokes should you’re brushing a end, and helps to get rid of that orange peel impact should you’re spraying or rolling a end.
After the primary coat, I gave it a fast sanding with 220-grit sandpaper.
After which I sprayed a second coat of paint on the backs.
Step 5 – Clear coat the again of every door and drawer entrance
I adopted that with two coats of my absolute favourite clear coat — General Finishes High Performance Topcoat in a flat finish. I rolled on the primary coat with a six-inch curler for clean surfaces, and let it dry. Then I gave it a fast sanding with 400-grit sandpaper, and adopted up with the second and ultimate coat.
I left these to sit down in a single day to dry earlier than beginning on the fronts.
Step 6 – Sand the primed entrance of every door and drawer entrance
I did the fronts in the identical sequence, beginning with calmly sanding the primer with 220-grit sandpaper.
Step 7 – Paint the entrance of every door and drawer entrance
Subsequent, I used my sprayer stuffed with my paint combined with Floetrol, and sprayed the primary coat, let it dry, after which gave it a light-weight sanding with 150-grit sandpaper earlier than spraying a second coat.
Sadly, I wasn’t in a position to spray the fronts of all the doorways and drawer fronts due to the climate. The climate seemed stunning, however on one of many days I used to be engaged on these, the temp was 109 levels, with the “really feel like” temp in all probability hovering round 112 or perhaps even increased.
So once I tried to make use of my sprayer, which sprays a really wonderful mist of paint (which is what usually produces such a wonderful end with that that orange peel look that heavier sprays typically produce), the wonderful mist of paint was midway dry by the point it left the sprayer and hit the door. That produced a powdery, tough end as a substitute of the gorgeous, clean end I’m used to.
In order that day, I needed to end up the portray course of indoors with a brush. Once more, had I not added trim to the fronts, your complete portray venture might have been executed rapidly and simply with a small 6-inch curler for clean surfaces. However due to the trim I added, I had to make use of a brush. It wasn’t a giant deal, although! It was slower, for certain, however as a result of I used to be utilizing a model new gallon of paint with Floetrol added, the end got here out superbly.
And even on those I brushed, I did one coat, let it dry completely, gave it a light-weight sanding with 220-grid sandpaper, after which brushed on a second coat.
Step 8 – Clear coat the entrance of every door and drawer entrance
When the paint was totally dry (which doesn’t take lengthy in our present 100+ diploma climate), I sprayed the primary coat of clear coat, let it dry, after which very calmly sanded with 400-grit sandpaper earlier than spraying the second and ultimate coat of clear end.
When sanding the primary coat of clear end, it’s crucial that you just use a really mild hand, and keep away from sanding on the corners/edges of the piece. The clear coat end is all the time the thinnest on the corners and edges, and should you do a lot sanding in any respect in these areas, it’s virtually assured that you just’ll sand by the paint end and need to do a number of touchups. I simply keep away from these altogether, and solely sand the flat surfaces.
After sanding the primary coat of clear coat, and earlier than spraying the ultimate clear coat (the coat that basically issues), I take advantage of my air gun attachment on my air compressor to ensure all the sanding particles has been eliminated completely.
I take further care with this step as a result of the second and ultimate coat of clear coat on the fronts of the doorways and drawer fronts is the one which counts! That is the ultimate end that everybody will see, so I need it as excellent as attainable.
There could also be instances that sanding the primary coat of clear coat could reveal a spot of primer.
In that case, I simply dip my finger into the paint, and dab it onto the spot. You too can use a really small craft paint brush for this. Simply make sure that the touchup paint may be very clean, and let it dry completely earlier than spraying the ultimate clear coat.
Right here’s what that spot seemed like when it was dry.
So after these tiny contact up areas are dry, you’re able to spray the second coat of clear coat, and that’s it!
Step 9 – Let the fronts dry completely and the set up
It’s vital to not rush this step. I do know the temptation is the set up the doorways and drawer fronts as quickly as they really feel dry to the contact, however understand that most finishes take 30 days to totally remedy.
I’m not suggesting that you just wait 30 days to put in them. I’m means too impatient for that. But when I’ve used Common Finishes (which dried more durable and sooner than only a painted end), I like to present them a minimum of 24 hours earlier than messing with them. I’m too impatient to attend longer than that, however I’ve discovered that giving it a full day is sufficient for them to be sturdy sufficient to face up to the jostling and manhandling and even the occasional bump that occurs when putting in doorways and drawer fronts.
In order that’s it! It’s a protracted course of, nevertheless it’s a course of I’ve used for years now, and I’ve had a lot success with lasting, sturdy finishes. Whereas I don’t have IKEA cupboards in my kitchen, I did paint my my kitchen cupboards in 2017 utilizing this course of, and so they nonetheless look incredible right now.
And I’m very onerous on surfaces. For those who learn my weblog often, and observe alongside on my room remodels, you understand how onerous I’m on my flooring. 😀 Properly, I’m not significantly better with cupboards or anything, and my painted kitchen cupboards have held up superbly to my abuse. After six years, I solely have three tiny imperfections within the paint, and people are three chips concerning the dimension of half of a grain of cooked rice, and so they’re all in areas that you just’d anticipate (just like the door just under the sink). Apart from these three tiny chips, the paint is fairly excellent.
I do know that portray cupboards will be daunting should you’ve by no means executed it earlier than. However the benefit of paint is that it might all the time be sanded should you make a mistake. For those who by chance stick your fingers into moist paint, simply let it dry, sand it, and take a look at once more. In case your end doesn’t end up as clean as you need it, make sure that it’s dry, sand it, and take a look at once more. It’s actually not something to be fearful of.
Just a few ultimate ideas and ideas:
First, it actually doesn’t matter should you paint with a brush, a curler, or a sprayer. Don’t stress an excessive amount of about that call. You may get a wonderful end with any of these instruments. If all you will have is a brush, I simply extremely advocate that you just use Floetrol in a model new quart or gallon of latex paint to get one of the best end.
Don’t pull out an previous gallon of paint that’s been sitting in your storage room for a yr and suppose that you just’re going to get an amazing end in your cupboards. Model new paint plus Floetrol has all the time been the successful combo for me, and it really works superbly even should you’re going to brush the paint on.
Additionally, the way in which by which I apply paint depends upon just a few issues. For instance, if I had been portray doorways and drawer fronts which can be fully flat on front and back, I might select to make use of a curler on every part and on each step, from priming, portray, and clear coating.
If I’m portray doorways and drawer fronts with trim or element that makes a curler impractical, clearly my choices can be a brush or sprayer. Which one I select depends upon issues just like the climate (like our 109-degree climate thtn made spraying troublesome) or the time of day (like if I solely have time to color at evening when it’s darkish outdoors). In these conditions, I’ll decide to color issues with a brush so I can work.
So there’s actually no appropriate reply. It’s all about no matter is handy for the time of day, the climate on that specific day or season, and the fashion of cupboards. However all three strategies of portray cupboards work simply wonderful, with some being extra environment friendly than others (clearly, brushing goes to be the slowest technique), however all three will get you to the end line. And so long as you’re taking time to do every step (DON’T SKIP SANDING!!!), you may find yourself with a wonderful end result.
One ultimate tip…
Now there may be one factor to bear in mind, and this can be a large one. All the time bear in mind than all three strategies of software will end in barely completely different sheens on the completed product. I can’t clarify it, however I’ve skilled this sufficient to know that even should you’re getting your paint out of 1 can all through your complete venture, should you brush one door and spray the subsequent, there shall be a distinction in sheens.
This isn’t actually vital for each single step. As I discussed above, in the course of the portray step of the method, I sprayed a few of the doorways, after which needed to brush others. That wasn’t a giant deal since I used to be planning a transparent topcoat. However it’s essential to bear in mind when doing the ultimate coat on every door and drawer entrance.
So I warn you about that simply to say that after you choose a way for that ultimate coat for the door fronts and drawer fronts, keep it up. Don’t spray half of your cupboard fronts on a day with good climate, after which brush or roll the remainder as a result of it’s raining the subsequent day however you wish to get the cupboards executed. For those who begin off spraying the ultimate coat on the fronts, spray all of them. For those who begin off rolling some, roll all of them. For those who begin off brushing a few of them, brush all of them.
I used completely different portray strategies on mine attributable to climate, however I sprayed the clear coats on each single door entrance and drawer entrance in order that there can be no variations in sheen as soon as they had been all put in. They usually look incredible!
I believe I’ve lined all the steps that I used on this IKEA cupboard portray venture. However if in case you have questions, please be at liberty to ask!
Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I rework and beautify the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do the vast majority of the work on the home on my own. You can learn more about me here.
