I had a really productive day yesterday! I received the entire primary trim connected to the cupboards within the workplace space of the studio. I ran out of the time, so I didn’t get to connect the ornamental trim, however the primary trim has gone a great distance in the direction of making this unit look completed and cohesive.
In my final publish on this venture, I had constructed the cubby bridge between the cupboards. At that time it appeared like this…
In case you missed the publish the place I confirmed how I constructed the cubby bridge on my own, you can see it here.
So with the entire primary trim connected, that is what the entire cupboard unit appeared like on the finish of the day final evening…
I do know it’s sort of tough to make sense of it with out the doorways and drawer fronts, however I didn’t wish to connect all of these for an image after which should take away them once more. The extra I deal with them, the extra of an opportunity I’m taking at scratching or damaging them, so we’ll all have to attend till subsequent week to see the entire thing put collectively. So let me present you the way I trimmed out this cupboard unit.
I began on the high and labored my means down. So beginning with the cubby bridge, I minimize and connected 1″ x 2″ items to the highest and backside. On each, I lined up the highest fringe of the 1″ x 2″ piece in order that it was flush with the plywood on high and backside of the bridge.
Subsequent, I minimize the vertical items and connected these. I connected all of this trim utilizing 1.5-inch 16-gauge nails in my nail gun. I didn’t use any wooden glue or development adhesive. Simply the nails.
Subsequent, I labored on the cupboards on the left facet of the unit. I had already connected 2″ x 2″ lumber to the edges of the unit, flush with the entrance fringe of the IKEA cupboards, in earlier steps. So in that very same means, I wanted to connect a 2″ x 2″ piece to the highest in order that I’d have one thing to nail the highest trim to. I nailed from the within of the cupboard, and into the two″ x 2″ piece, ensuring that the entrance fringe of the two″ x 2″ piece sat flush with the entrance facet edges of the IKEA cupboard.
Then I started including the trim, beginning with the piece subsequent to the wall. I measured the space from the surface fringe of the IKEA cupboard to the wall, after which used my desk noticed to tear a chunk of 1″ x 4″ lumber to the right width.
I additionally ran all of those trim items by means of my planer to airplane them to five/8-inch thickness since that’s the thickness of the IKEA Veddinge doorways and drawer fronts. If I had used the 1-inch lumber (which is definitely 3/4-inch thick) as-is, the trim would have caught out 1/8-inch additional than the doorways and drawer fronts. I don’t actually assume that’s a giant deal, and if I didn’t have a planer, I’d have simply used the 1-inch lumber as-is and handled the totally different thickness to an intentional design determination. 😀 However since I do have a planer, I made a decision to make use of it.
So with that piece ripped, planed, and minimize to size, I nailed it to the two″ x 2″ in order that it fully lined that house between the cupboard and the wall.
Right here’s one other view. I’ll most likely use some small trim (shoe molding, maybe) to fill in that tiny hole that also stays between the trim piece and the wall. Or I may find yourself caulking it. We’ll see.
Then I repeated that very same course of for the opposite facet — rip, airplane, minimize, and nail into place.
When attaching face trim round IKEA cupboards, it’s important to be very positive that you simply don’t put the trim over the sting of the cupboard in any respect. The trim can come proper as much as that exterior edge, however for those who cowl over any of that edge, it can stop the doorways and drawers from functioning correctly.
Subsequent, I did the very same factor on the underside of the cupboard. Fairly actually, I used to be making up the design as I went alongside. 😀 I had initially deliberate to construct this cupboard space with ornamental trim (such as you would see on a bookcase) going all the best way throughout the entrance of the entire cupboard unit alongside the ground. Then I assumed I would need a toekick throughout all the entrance of the entire unit. Ultimately, I made a decision to make use of each concepts and put ornamental trim on the 2 exterior tall cupboards, and a toe kick on the center drawer part with the countertop.
As a way to connect trim to the underside, I first needed to connect a 2″ x 2″ piece to the underside of the cupboard. I forgot to take an image of this step, nevertheless it’s the very same factor I did on the highest of the cupboard in step one above. Identical to on the opposite three sides of this tall cupboard, this 2″ x 2″ piece gave me one thing to nail this trim piece to.
After which lastly, I connected the highest trim piece.
Since I made a decision to do ornamental trim on the surface cupboards, and a toekick on the center part, I wanted so as to add yet one more piece to this cupboard part earlier than the essential trim was completed. I minimize a chunk of 1″ x 4″ wooden to about six inches in size…
And I connected it proper right here, perpendicular to the entrance trim piece alongside the ground. I nailed it in place proper by means of the entrance of the entrance trim piece and into the sting of this perpendicular piece. In case you can’t envision the aim for this piece, you’ll perceive it in somewhat bit.
Since I had initially deliberate to do ornamental trim (no toekick) throughout the entrance of the entire cupboard unit, I had put in these spacer items with the legs (which solely served to help me in holding that spacer in place simpler whereas I screwed the spacer into place). However now that I wished a toekick, I needed to take away that little leg piece that was in the best way.
I used my Dremel MultiMax oscillating noticed to take away it rapidly and simply, slicing that little leg flush with the underside of the cupboard, and liberate that house for a toekick.
After which I ripped, planed, and minimize the trim piece to cowl that spacer. Since that is the part with the toekick, I minimize this trim piece the peak of the cupboard, and didn’t have this piece go all the best way to the ground.
With the essential trim put in on the left cupboard unit, I repeated that total course of on the fitting facet.
The very last thing to do was to put in the toekick. Since I had connected the wooden ft flush with the entrance of those cupboards, I needed to transfer them again to make room for a toekick. You possibly can see what I imply within the picture beneath. See how these wooden block ft are proper alongside the entrance fringe of the cupboards?
I had connected them that means in order that I may nail the ornamental trim to these wooden blocks. However now they have been in the best way of a toekick. So similar to I needed to do on the mural wall cupboards, I used my hammer and gave every block foot a very good whack (they have been solely held on with sizzling glue, no screws or nails) to interrupt them free and transfer them again. Right here’s a close-up image I took after I did this similar course of on the mural wall cupboards.
As soon as they have been the place I wanted them to be for a toekick, I re-glued them into place (which was fairly difficult in that tight space beneath the cupboard). Right here’s one other image I took after I did this similar course of on the mural wall cupboards. You possibly can see the ft moved again in comparison with the ft proper alongside the entrance edge.
So as soon as I had the ft on these cupboards moved again and re-glued into their new place, I minimize and nailed the toekick to these wooden blocks. And now you possibly can see the aim of these items I connected perpendicular to the entrance trim items on these facet cupboard items.
With out these items, there could be a gap there. As soon as the toekick piece was nailed in place, I received my sizzling glue gun into that crack between the facet perpendicular piece and the top of the toekick, squeezed some glue alongside the top of the toekick piece, after which used a tiny prybar to comfortable that perpendicular piece to the toekick till the glue dried. So now that perpendicular piece is securely in place alongside the entrance nailed edge and the again the place it’s glued.
And with that, the essential trim was completed!
I used to be upset that I ran out of time to do the ornamental trim, however I don’t like utilizing my instruments exterior previous 9:00pm. So I nonetheless want so as to add crown molding to the highest of every part…
After which I’ll add ornamental trim to the underside of the facet cupboard items.
I haven’t determined but if I’ll add trim (shoe molding or quarter spherical) on this space the place the plywood meets the wall. But when I do, that must wait till after I’ve constructed the countertop. Since I’ll be portray the wall the identical colour as the cupboards, I may use caulk to fill in these tiny cracks moderately than utilizing trim.
In order that’s the progress! It’s coming alongside, and I’m thrilled with the way it’s turning out!
Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I rework and beautify the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do the vast majority of the work on the home on my own. You can learn more about me here.
