Prepping My IKEA Veddinge Cupboard Doorways & Drawer Fronts For Paint – Sanding, Including Trim, And so on.
When buying IKEA Sektion cupboards for my studio, I opted for the Veddinge cupboard doorways and drawer fronts for one quite simple purpose. They had been one of many least costly choices. And whenever you want as many as I wanted for my studio (which might be equal to a really giant kitchen), these financial savings added up fairly a bit. And whereas I didn’t need flat entrance cupboard doorways and drawer fronts in my remaining studio design, I knew that I might add my very own trim and nonetheless find yourself with fairly a financial savings. Plus, my plan from the start was to color my cupboards a enjoyable shade (you can see all of the colors I considered here), so including trim wouldn’t be that large of a deal.
I did have a tough time deciding simply how I wished to trim them out, although. I thought-about a number of designs (some of which you can see here), and totally different choices to get that design. I believed I had landed on the thought of utilizing Overlays (that are laser minimize designs that you just adhere to the fronts of the doorways), however the deciding issue all got here all the way down to the one cupboard proper in the midst of the mural wall that has six 5-inch-high drawers. Ultimately, I made a decision that I wished these drawers trimmed out individually, however no design I attempted would match on these brief drawer fronts. In a pc drawing, it appeared to work…
However once I tried that concept with actual trim on an actual drawer entrance, I spotted actually rapidly that precise trim takes up far more area than a skinny drawn line on a pc mock up.
After attempting each design I might consider, I lastly concluded that the one design that might match on these doorways was a easy rectangle. And if I’m going to do a easy rectangle, there’s actually no must order Overlays and wait their three-week turnaround time once I might simply purchase some easy trim, minimize strips in the appropriate size and mitered on the corners, and make my rectangle frames.
In order that’s what I did. I had in thoughts that I’d use wooden lattice trim. The worth for wooden lattice is sort of the vary, from $1.48 per linear foot (which might have price $556.48 for the quantity I wanted) to $0.98 per linear foot (which might have price $368.48 for the quantity I wanted).
There’s additionally a small trim referred to as display, which I’ve used many instances through the years for numerous tasks. It’s $0.78 per linear foot, which might have come to $293.28. I most likely would have bought this one had that they had sufficient in inventory. However they had been nearly bought out.
And I’m glad I saved trying as a result of I landed in a piece that I by no means take a look at and by no means even contemplate — the plastic trim. It’s referred to as polystyrene, which I all the time affiliate with Styrofoam. Once we moved into our home, the ceilings all through the home had been lined in polystyrene tiles, and so they had that very same really feel as a Styrofoam espresso cup. However this plastic is tough, nevertheless it’s not shiny plastic. The floor appears like a primed floor that may simply take paint.
They’d the identical display trim within the plastic trim, however this price $3.48 per 8-foot piece. That’s $0.44 per linear foot.
In order that’s what I received, and it price $163.56 for all of the trim I wanted for all three sections of cupboards within the studio.
To prep the cupboard doorways and drawer fronts for trim and paint, I wanted to sand the tremendous shiny end off of all of them. I did this utilizing my electrical sander and 100-grit sandpaper discs. I attempted 120-grit, however that didn’t minimize via that manufacturing facility end. (The end on IKEA Veddinge cupboard door and drawer fronts is superb and extremely sturdy, FYI. I’d think about they’re all like this, and I’m fairly impressed with the standard of the end. If solely they bought pink doorways! 😀 ) The 100-grit labored very well, although. I took extra of the end off than was mandatory on this primary cupboard door. On the following ones, I sanded simply sufficient to take away the shine, however not likely sufficient to see via the white paint.
After they had been all sanded, I made myself a jig to mark the place the trim would go on every door and drawer entrance. Since IKEA Veddinge doorways are 5/8-inch thick, I made the jig with one piece of scrap 1-inch lumber ripped to 1 3/8 inch (keep in mind that 1-inch lumber is definitely 3/4-inch thick), and nailed that to a different scrap piece of 1-inch lumber ripped to 1 inch. That means, after they had been nailed collectively, the within of the larger piece was 5/8 inch to suit completely on the facet fringe of the door or drawer entrance, and the piece that might go on prime of the door would mark the 1-inch area that I wished to depart on the sting earlier than the trim.
I minimize the items to 36 inches lengthy since that was the width of the widest drawer fronts.
So after sanding every door and drawer entrance, I positioned my jig on the sting of the cupboard door with the 1-inch piece on prime of the door, and marked that line. After doing this on all 4 sides, I had a superbly spaced rectangle to mark the place the trim can be hooked up.
Earlier than truly including the trim, I wished to drill holes for the cupboard {hardware}. For the drawers, I purchased these 10-inch pulls. So I folded a chunk of paper (utilizing cardstock or thick photograph paper would have been preferable) and marked the width of the screw holes.
Then I used my tape measure to measure and mark the middle between the screw holes.
Earlier than marking the drawer fronts, I positioned a chunk of painters tape the place the pull would go…
After which utilizing my tape measure, I measured and marked the middle of the peak of the drawer. I did this in two locations.
After which utilizing a straight edge, I used these two marks to attract a line proper down the middle of the drawer top.
Subsequent, I measured over from the sting and marked the center of the drawer.
With the center marked, I used the sample I had made and lined up the center marks, and marked the screw gap positions on the middle line I had drawn.
That gave me the right spacing for the drawer pull.
Earlier than I drilled the holes on the very first drawer entrance, I double checked the marks. However as soon as I knew my sample was proper, I didn’t double test the following drawer fronts.
After which I used to be able to drill the holes.
And voila! Completely positioned, completely spaced holes for the drawer pull.
I do know that appeared like an extended, drawn out course of, however you solely must make one sample (or one for every measurement of pull). Upon getting a sample, the remainder of the method goes in a short time. I believe it took me about two minutes to do every drawer entrance.
As soon as the holes for the {hardware} had been drilled, I used to be prepared to connect the trim. I minimize all the trim with my miter noticed, slicing the ends at a 45-degree angle. The wonderful thing about drawing the rectangle (utilizing the jig) earlier than slicing and attaching trim is that you should utilize these pre-drawn traces to ensure your trim cuts are the precise proper size. I minimize all of the trim items, after which double checked the lengths by holding them to the drawn traces and ensuring they had been precisely proper. A few of them wanted a bit extra (a couple of blade width) minimize off to make them good earlier than attaching the trim. Additionally earlier than attaching the trim, every trim piece wanted only a little bit of sanding with 220-grit sandpaper on the minimize ends earlier than assembling the frames.
I assembled the frames earlier than attaching them to the drawer fronts, and I assembled them utilizing my sizzling glue gun. It solely took only a very small quantity of sizzling glue to place the frames collectively.
I let the glue dry for a minute or two, after which flipped the body over and added a bead of Loctite building adhesive to the again. One factor I like about this plastic trim is that the again is definitely indented, making it excellent to make use of with building adhesive. When utilizing trim that has a flat again, the development adhesive often squishes out the perimeters as soon as the trim is utilized. I didn’t have that subject with this trim.
And since I had already measured and marked the traces the place the trim would go, placing the trim in place was very simple. There was no guess work, no measuring required, and no room for errors.
And right here’s a peek at a drawer entrance with the brand new trim and a drawer pull sitting in place.
I’m not fairly completed including the trim to the cupboard doorways, and as soon as I end that, I’ll have yet one more step earlier than I’m prepared for priming and portray. I nonetheless need to caulk the corners of the trim to get rid of these tiny cracks within the joints, after which I need to caulk all the way in which round all the trim. That received’t be a fast and simple course of since I’ve so many drawers and door fronts, however it is going to be price it. These kinds of particulars actually go an extended technique to taking a DIY mission to the following stage.
In order that’s the progress up to now. My new order of IKEA cupboards is arriving at present, so I’ll have much more sanding and trimming to do. However I’m actually hoping I’ll be prepared for paint by this weekend!
Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I transform and enhance the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do the vast majority of the work on the home on my own. You can learn more about me here.
